Across Lake Okechobee to Moorehaven

1178 nm   N26 49.919 W081 05.389

Today was the big one.  The day we actually cross the lake.

Lake Okechobee is the second largest freshwater lake entirely within the U.S. after Lake Michigan.  It is very shallow, rather like a large saucer full of water.  Because of this, it can become very choppy when the wind is up, a condition very familiar to us Chesapeake sailors.

At 8:30 am we cast off our lines from the Dolphins and headed for the lock.  A radio call to the lockmaster got the response that the lock was open on both sides, and we were clear to go straight through.  Under normal circumstances, the lock only raises the level by one foot, but in times of low water, it is left open, and today seemed to be one of those days.

Lock is Open All the Way Through

Once through the lock, you get to make a decision.  There two routes you can take.  The first, called "Route 1", is a direct path that cuts straight across the southeast part of the lake.  The second, called "Route 2" or the "Rim Route"  sticks to the shoreline, but is 10 miles longer.   Although the scenery is prettier on the Rim Route, it is too shallow for keelboats at this time of year, so we had to take Route 1.  Both routes rejoin at Clewiston, and continue along the lakeshore for another 15 miles or so, so we would still get to see some sights.

Route 1 had a reported depth of 7.6 ft, but we only saw this briefly as we left the lock area and entered the body of the lake. After that, it was 10-11 ft all the way.

Onto the Lake!

The actual Lake crossing is pretty boring.    Its a narrow straight channel across the lake, with only one channel maker midway.  I set the chartplotter up to route a straight course down the track, and slaved the autopilot to follow it.  The wind was on our stern quarter, which started driving chop and rollers behind us, so I unrolled the jib to steady us a bit and we got to motorsail!

In the summer, the Lake has a serious problem with a toxic algae scum that builds up on the surface.  This past summer, up to 85% of the Lake surface was covered!  But now, in the winter, there was no trace of scum.

Although technically "fresh" water, when examined up closely the water color is an unappealing opaque gray, somewhat reminicent of the color you get when pouring water into a fresh batch of concrete mix.

Three hours later, we reached the far side, and threaded our way into the Rim Route at Clewiston. The Rim route was originally dredged, and the dredge tailings were piled up on the lake side of the channel, forming a sort of barrier island that isolates the channel directly from the lake.  And it is an Everglade-like riot of wildlife!  More variants of waterfowl than I ever knew existed.  And aligators! Up to this point in the trip, we had only seen 4 or five small alligators in the canal leading up to the lake.  But now we had alligators galore.  Including several big 8 ft+ ones sunning themselves!

Rim Route Past Clewiston

Comorant Drying His Wings

Gators By Land and By Sea

Big Fellow Sunning Himself

But, eventually, all good things must come to an end, and we reached the lock at Moorehaven and left the lake. 

A short distance beyond the lock, we tied up at a face dock that is the Moorehaven Municipal dock.  It is only $1/ft, and includes 30 amp power, showers, and WiFi.  Not quite free, but pretty darn close! You pay at the City Hall, which is right next to the dock. Shower access is 24 hr via a door code.

We walked into town to do some minor provisioning, and later returned for dinner at the "Cafe 27".

Life is good.